Oh well, at least now that I have it I can rest assured I'll never need it!?! Jack
Thanks to the paint shaker 4 cyl diesel and the beat up roads. I am constantly finding stress fatigued brackets and such on my little skoolie. My sharp eyed wife spotted one of the under the front fender driving lamps hanging by its wiring when we pulled into our camp site Thursday evening. Since the original 11" head lamps (despite the halogen bulbs) barely light the way 5' in front of the bus, the long range driving lamps are really a very necessary part of the equipment. Fortunately, moving the brackets to a bit more centralized location and re-welding them wasn't very difficult--but I'll keep an eye on them now.
By the way, the camp ground was at Lake Cachuma, Ca about 14 miles from Solvang, Ca. The weather was beautiful and the lake was nearly full. 'Twas the first time out for more than an overnight since Yosemite in May--I really need to get out more often. Jack
Nope--but I've got a dealer level scanner for my little Isuzu powered bus! After discovering that the Isuzu dealers charge $200 per scan per code I freaked out and began looking for a dealer level scanner. After several false starts and a return of a non working scanner I now have a complete scan and diagnostic system with a lap top computer setup. I felt it was necessary to go this route since all the info Isuzu has on it's vehicles is proprietary. I could just see myself stuck in BF nowhere at Bubba's garage and no hope of figuring out what was wrong.
I like all the snazzy new computer stuff and multiplex wiring but I don't like not having a clue how to fix my bus--now I do. Jack
P.S. Not cheap at $1500 but -----
From the "its always easier to to do it right the first time" file-----
I spent the day on my back under my bus draining the gas tank for the genny and modifying the fuel pick up line. Had I known 5 yrs ago what I now know about gasoline additives and their effect on non EPA approved rubber hoses I wouldn't have had all the fun. My buddy Tom and I both had our custom built aluminum gas tanks made at the same time. The welder provided a couple of "threaded bungs" on the side of the tanks near the bottom. He also fabricated filler necks and a large port on the top of the tanks for insertion of the fuel sender unit--a beautiful job. We'd both planned to use external electric fuel pumps and simply set a barbed connector into one of the bungs and went from there to the pump using flexible rubber fuel line (both from the same length of Gates Made in USA fuel line). About 3 weeks ago, Tom's fuel line gave up the ghost and puked the better part of 20 gallons of gasoline on his garage floor and out the drive. Long story longer, I was able to staunch the flow, clean up the spill and safely drain the remaining gas without burning Tom's condo complex down.
It didn't take me long to see the error in our design. If we'd have simply installed a
"straw" in the top of our tanks making sure none of the rest of the fuel line fell below the top of the tank we'd have been golden. Its that straw (though external) that burned up my day and back. All's well that ends well---ARRG!
I'm feeling all smug. I've had a check engine lamp glowing on my little bus for a year now. I talked to the local Isuzu dealer about it as soon as it came on and was told that it would cost $200 to scan for the problem and then we would go from there. The bus seemed to drive just fine though the fuel economy took a nose dive. Down from 17 mpg to a bit over 14. A little while ago I bought a dealer level scan tool that covers the engine, trans, ABS brakes, wiring and troubleshooting. I decided to wait until there was a lull in the camping activities before I risked tearing into the problem. I plugged in and immediately was told that the mas air flow/ air temp sensor was showing low voltage. It took me longer to open the hood than it did for me to spot the MAF sensor and about a second longer to find the broken in the insulation 12v power wire. A big Isuzu parts house in Santa Ana, Ca was able to ship me a 3" long wire patch that slipped right into the 5 wire plug at the MAF sensor. The wire cost $8, the shipping $12. A half hour later the wire was installed, the code cleared and the check engine light out--whooppie
As I read through the diagnostics I saw that the computer automatically resets the fuel management to whatever reading it was at just as the wire went open. Though I wasn't seeing smoke, I'll bet the wire broke at cold idle which would account for the poor fuel economy.
Though I know wish full thinking when I engage in it, a buddy who has had his trucks worked on at the same dealership assured me that he had never gotten out of the shop after an electrical problem for less than $1500. Since the scanner cost me $1500 that news made me feel good (better?)--still, $200 savings leaves $1300 cost--Oh Well. Jack
P.S. Weird result!?! Font's fine but it looks like a ---poem
P.S. ditto I back spaced then re-spaced after each "stanza". Almost readable now though I still can't post pics.
This is an ode to an old school RV heater. About the time I began building my'35 Chevy Skoolie, I was gifted a '76 fifth wheel trailer. Being the chea--thrifty lad that I am, I made a Herculean effort to use all the free stuff I could. Long story longer, I ended up keeping the 4 burner stove with oven and the Duo Therm 12,0OO BTU gravity heater and little else. The stove works great-the heater not so much. The heater lights and stays lit but only operates full blast or off. The thermostat unit just didn't work and in my tiny bus things got hot way too fast. I searched for a replacement gas regulator for 5 years and only just now found a suitable replacement.
I had looked at replacing the heater with one of the catalytic heaters but was concerned about the water vapor they produce as well as the fact they use cabin air for combustion. The thing I liked about the Duo Therm gravity heater is that it uses outside air for combustion and exhausts to the outside, hence no water vapor in the bus.
These Duo Therm heaters were installed in thousands of trailers and motor homes in the 1970's and '80's and then were replaced by various "forced ail, units after that. The internet palaver about these heaters drops off completely after 1989-about the time the last so equipped sticks and staples RVs gave up the ghost. Nevertheless, there are still many of these heaters wasting away in RV scrap yards and often available for next to nothing. Of course here in sunny Ca, where land costs preclude saving anything old, I couldn't find a replacement-but they are out there-they just have to be.
At any rate, if you find one they are great little heaters and now that I found a brand new gas control valve substitute I love mine all over again. The substitute valve is a Robertshaw 710-205 with a t75L- 013 propane conversion module. The valve is a direct fit replacement (as direct as anything replacing a 40 year old apparatus could be) and cost about $120 delivered.
Once I found the correct style valve I considered upgrading to the remote thermostat configuration and adding a pilot light igniter as well. lt wouldn't have involved a whole lot more work but would have about doubled the repair cost. After giving it some thought and since I use an electric cube heater when I have electricity (which is most of the time), I decided that l'd just stick with the original configuration
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