Yes, Dennis...it's 1-1/2". I got that for the walls, too. I also have 7 sheets of 3/4" for the ceiling to go along with that rolls of foil stuff or to use on the walls for extra insulation (?). one is R7.5, one is R5 and I can't remember what the foil stuff R value is.
I originally bought all regular fiberglass insulation with an R value of 19 or something. But was told by several people on skoolie.net to take it back because it will get wet from moisture and I could end up with a mold problem. I already got REALLY sick from a mobile home that had black mold in the walls so I took all that insulation back and bought 15 sheets of 1-1/2", 8 sheets of 3/4" and 5 rolls of the foil stuff.
ezrablu - 1991 Bluebird of Happiness
Moderator: TMAX
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Dennis The Bus Dweller
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My 2 cents on da carpet. Carpet is warm and keeps the noise down but collects dirt pretty easy so being you got pretty good floor insulation and a poly vapor barrior you might wonna go with the nice wood floor and put the carpet over it in the winter for extra warmth the rool it up and stow it over the good weather month 
Peace along the way
Dennis the bus dweller N.Y.
Dennis the bus dweller N.Y.
Great suggestion, Dennis. I would LOVE to have a wood floor a 100 times more than carpet. I won't have anywhere to store the carpet...I'm trying to get rid of my storages. I doubt that I'll have room to keep it in my bus. So, I need to figure out which one to go with. I did buy some linoleum, too, that I plan on putting in the drivers area floor where the pedals are and just at the top of the stairs.
ezrablu
1991 Bluebird International
360 DT - 6 Speed
1991 Bluebird International
360 DT - 6 Speed
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Dennis The Bus Dweller
- Seasoned Nomadicista
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If and when you use the foil stuff creat a 3/8" or 1/2" air space by using plywood stips then foil stuff then finished walls. Traped air is your insulation friendI can't remember what the foil stuff R value is
even trapping a 1/2" of air between foam board raises your R value. It may even say so printed on the foam board, check it out 
Peace along the way
Dennis the bus dweller N.Y.
Dennis the bus dweller N.Y.
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Dennis The Bus Dweller
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Check this stuff out for a roof coating. Im going to try to tint it and paint my whole big bus with it http://www.supertherm.net/ Check out the R-value on this stuff
Peace along the way
Dennis the bus dweller N.Y.
Dennis the bus dweller N.Y.
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Dennis The Bus Dweller
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Looks like nobody better stand where you're goin' EB. <g> That's a big chunk of work you plowed through there. Congrats!
A note on insulation: That top (inside) layer of plastic is the one you want to seal up as good as you can. It's supposed to keep water vapor (what you breath out a lot of) from getting into the insulation cavity - where it might sneak on by and touch the (cold) outside wall and turn back into real water, right where you don't want it. So, as much as you can, seal any crack or hole that might connect the inside of the bus (living area) with the inside of your walls (insulation cavity). Same idea goes for the walls if you build them out.
Speaking of walls, take thought to where water condensing on windows goes when it rolls down off the bottom of the window glass. Don't bet on caulk to protect you from water; almost all caulk dies after a couple years, gets stiff and splits when the bus flexes as you move. To handle water well you need to overlap your materials (metal, rubber, even wood) like fish scales so that water running down is always directed to the outer side. Pretend you're a drop of water merrily rolling along with a free ride from gravity and always taking the easy way down - where would _you_ go and end up? Then you arrange your material to always overlap so the water never gets inside your wall. If the material is arranged right, it won't matter if it moves a bit (1/8" to 1/4"), it will still shed water the right way, even after 10 years. If you can find a real old house porch, say 50-100 years old that hasn't be "remuddled" look at all the joints and seams. The porches led the hardest life weather-wise and they only way they lasted was because all their joints were made to shed water out and away. No caulking allowed! So try to arrange to lead your window condensate somewhere it won't hurt - and no, I don't have the certified solution! <g> That kinda depends on your interior decorating.
Great start you've made. Looks like you've got big plans for the summer.
Rufus
A note on insulation: That top (inside) layer of plastic is the one you want to seal up as good as you can. It's supposed to keep water vapor (what you breath out a lot of) from getting into the insulation cavity - where it might sneak on by and touch the (cold) outside wall and turn back into real water, right where you don't want it. So, as much as you can, seal any crack or hole that might connect the inside of the bus (living area) with the inside of your walls (insulation cavity). Same idea goes for the walls if you build them out.
Speaking of walls, take thought to where water condensing on windows goes when it rolls down off the bottom of the window glass. Don't bet on caulk to protect you from water; almost all caulk dies after a couple years, gets stiff and splits when the bus flexes as you move. To handle water well you need to overlap your materials (metal, rubber, even wood) like fish scales so that water running down is always directed to the outer side. Pretend you're a drop of water merrily rolling along with a free ride from gravity and always taking the easy way down - where would _you_ go and end up? Then you arrange your material to always overlap so the water never gets inside your wall. If the material is arranged right, it won't matter if it moves a bit (1/8" to 1/4"), it will still shed water the right way, even after 10 years. If you can find a real old house porch, say 50-100 years old that hasn't be "remuddled" look at all the joints and seams. The porches led the hardest life weather-wise and they only way they lasted was because all their joints were made to shed water out and away. No caulking allowed! So try to arrange to lead your window condensate somewhere it won't hurt - and no, I don't have the certified solution! <g> That kinda depends on your interior decorating.
Great start you've made. Looks like you've got big plans for the summer.
Rufus
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Jones'n4chrome
- Posts: 778
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Ezra,
I really like your bus. You are doing a great job on it too!
One thing you may want to consider, before you build over those heater hoses. Is to eliminate that system all together. The main reason is because those heaters take up space, and they will only heat the bus when the engine is running. Also, as you have already discovered you have to build around them.
If you decide to keep that system, it would be wise to replace about 60' of that black hose with copper pipe. Only use hose to connect the heater to the new copper pipe, but only if you have access to service it later if you need to.
The black hose has engine coolant running through it anytime the valve is open. It is made of the same material as your radiator hoses, as you know when they get old they can burst and then flood the inside of your bus with coolant.
Dennis just had a hose clamp break on his bus. he lost gallons of coolant, but it spilled outside on the ground.
So the problem is you can't inspect or service those hoses as time goes by.
I took them out of my bus. I will have the wood stove and propane heaters. You can plumb the propane from under the bus, then just pop up into the bus where you need it.
Again, great progress on a cool bus.
Chuck
I really like your bus. You are doing a great job on it too!
One thing you may want to consider, before you build over those heater hoses. Is to eliminate that system all together. The main reason is because those heaters take up space, and they will only heat the bus when the engine is running. Also, as you have already discovered you have to build around them.
If you decide to keep that system, it would be wise to replace about 60' of that black hose with copper pipe. Only use hose to connect the heater to the new copper pipe, but only if you have access to service it later if you need to.
The black hose has engine coolant running through it anytime the valve is open. It is made of the same material as your radiator hoses, as you know when they get old they can burst and then flood the inside of your bus with coolant.
Dennis just had a hose clamp break on his bus. he lost gallons of coolant, but it spilled outside on the ground.
So the problem is you can't inspect or service those hoses as time goes by.
I took them out of my bus. I will have the wood stove and propane heaters. You can plumb the propane from under the bus, then just pop up into the bus where you need it.
Again, great progress on a cool bus.
Chuck
Thanks Chuck...wow, I really didn't know anything about those hoses....especially that they have antifreeze in them! Good grief that would be awful if one of those hoses cracked or leaked!
I don't know how to replace them with copper so I guess the next best thing would be to remove the hoses. Is there some kind of instruction anywhere on how to do this? Is it hard to do?
Thank goodness for letting me know. Especially before I was any further along
I don't know how to replace them with copper so I guess the next best thing would be to remove the hoses. Is there some kind of instruction anywhere on how to do this? Is it hard to do?
Thank goodness for letting me know. Especially before I was any further along
ezrablu
1991 Bluebird International
360 DT - 6 Speed
1991 Bluebird International
360 DT - 6 Speed
) and good work EB! I am looking forward to more pics and progress! And I'm learning some things from you as you work along!Blu, I removed those hoses in my bus. If you think of the system as a long loop, find where they appear at the front of the bus. (most likely near the driver's seat or even in the engine compartment).
Loop the two pipes there or cap the two pipes off.
I forgot what I did with mine. I will investigate and give you a report.
Loop the two pipes there or cap the two pipes off.
I forgot what I did with mine. I will investigate and give you a report.
Got love? Give love.
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the88
heater removal
Hi Ezrablu
Thank you for the kind comments on the88.org and for directing us here; it seems like a kinder and more reasonable place...
The heaters are easier to remove than they look to be-
First, find the two shutoffs- they will look like round outdoor faucet handles or straight levers, (we had one of each,) and can be found by following the two coolant hoses to and from the heater(s) turn those off: round ones generally clockwise and levers generally perpendicular to the hose. Next, at the lowest possible location of the heater hose that you can access, remove the hose with a clean bucket beneath it, (you'll probably want to reuse some of it filtered through cloth when you're topping up the system...) Don't be afraid of cutting the hose of its' fitting if you have to, you'll soon find out that repairs are simple. Next, if you're permanently removing the heater(s) and I'm assuming that your heater hose is 1", (it'll be marked on the outside,) go to the hardware store's plumbing department and buy: three 3/4" threaded steel nipples, they come in any length that you might need, and two 90 degree connectors, buy some thread compound, glop that onto the 90 degree inside threads and make a horseshoe shape with your parts and pieces. Now you have the means of making a closed loop from the ends of the hoses that remain after removing the heater. Let me know if that's detail enough or if you'd like some photos later on... Shelley will be happy to take some.
Again, thank you for your kindness; we believe in that stuff out here.
Thank you for the kind comments on the88.org and for directing us here; it seems like a kinder and more reasonable place...
The heaters are easier to remove than they look to be-
First, find the two shutoffs- they will look like round outdoor faucet handles or straight levers, (we had one of each,) and can be found by following the two coolant hoses to and from the heater(s) turn those off: round ones generally clockwise and levers generally perpendicular to the hose. Next, at the lowest possible location of the heater hose that you can access, remove the hose with a clean bucket beneath it, (you'll probably want to reuse some of it filtered through cloth when you're topping up the system...) Don't be afraid of cutting the hose of its' fitting if you have to, you'll soon find out that repairs are simple. Next, if you're permanently removing the heater(s) and I'm assuming that your heater hose is 1", (it'll be marked on the outside,) go to the hardware store's plumbing department and buy: three 3/4" threaded steel nipples, they come in any length that you might need, and two 90 degree connectors, buy some thread compound, glop that onto the 90 degree inside threads and make a horseshoe shape with your parts and pieces. Now you have the means of making a closed loop from the ends of the hoses that remain after removing the heater. Let me know if that's detail enough or if you'd like some photos later on... Shelley will be happy to take some.
Again, thank you for your kindness; we believe in that stuff out here.
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