1960 Crown TV Truck
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- Posts: 24
- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:27 pm
- Location: Virginia (for now)
- Contact:
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- Posts: 778
- Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:10 pm
Chuck, Sharkey and/or any other Crown familiar people...
When doing body panel work do you HAVE to have that tool set and fasteners or can you replace them with something else? Or did they stop using them by a certain year?
I'm asking because the people I've been attempting to deal with regarding a Gillig are excruciatingly slow regarding return contact. I'm about to give up and take a peak at a Crown schoolie.
Any welder/fabricators in WA state?
When doing body panel work do you HAVE to have that tool set and fasteners or can you replace them with something else? Or did they stop using them by a certain year?
I'm asking because the people I've been attempting to deal with regarding a Gillig are excruciatingly slow regarding return contact. I'm about to give up and take a peak at a Crown schoolie.
Any welder/fabricators in WA state?
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I think you referring to the tools to remove any Gulmite fasteners. Yes if the bus you buy has gulmite fasteners, then you will need the driver to remove them. After they are removed, then you can replace them with a standard fastener.Headache wrote:Chuck, Sharkey and/or any other Crown familiar people...
When doing body panel work do you HAVE to have that tool set and fasteners or can you replace them with something else? Or did they stop using them by a certain year?
I'm asking because the people I've been attempting to deal with regarding a Gillig are excruciatingly slow regarding return contact. I'm about to give up and take a peak at a Crown schoolie.
Any welder/fabricators in WA state?
The only way to effectively work with Gulmite screws is to have a set of drivers.
It is possible to twist some of them out with pliers, but that will get old very fast on a coach that has thousands of them, and scaring up the metal behind the screw heads is almost unavoidable. Drilling them out is equally untenable, as they are made from some very hard steel. Cutting a slot in them is simply a waste of time, unless you used a CNC machine to make a perfect square-bottomed, parallel-sided slot, no screwdrive will grip them.
In desparation on some of the damaged screws in my bus, I tried to slice the heads off with a pneumatic chisel. No go, they ended up tearing the base metal into an oblong hole until they no longer had a purchase. it was very destructive to the bus construction. Luckily, only a few needed this treatment.
Once you get them out (using the proper tool) put them back in, these are some of the higest quality fasteners I've ever seen!
Since we're on the subject: http://www.mrsharkey.com/forum/vwtp.php?t=1270
It is possible to twist some of them out with pliers, but that will get old very fast on a coach that has thousands of them, and scaring up the metal behind the screw heads is almost unavoidable. Drilling them out is equally untenable, as they are made from some very hard steel. Cutting a slot in them is simply a waste of time, unless you used a CNC machine to make a perfect square-bottomed, parallel-sided slot, no screwdrive will grip them.
In desparation on some of the damaged screws in my bus, I tried to slice the heads off with a pneumatic chisel. No go, they ended up tearing the base metal into an oblong hole until they no longer had a purchase. it was very destructive to the bus construction. Luckily, only a few needed this treatment.
Once you get them out (using the proper tool) put them back in, these are some of the higest quality fasteners I've ever seen!
Since we're on the subject: http://www.mrsharkey.com/forum/vwtp.php?t=1270
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I have a set of drivers, but if I didn't I would see if a stud welder would work on the end of the screw.
However I got them out, I would never put them back in.
There are too many high quality screws on the market to use screws with an obsolete head.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjLb-Sj6 ... re=related
However I got them out, I would never put them back in.
There are too many high quality screws on the market to use screws with an obsolete head.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SjLb-Sj6 ... re=related
Okay, the other bus I'm interested in is a 73 Crown Super schoolie and it has some rust on the hinges, the rear emergency door and there is a panel he claims has rust on it(above the right fender about 2 feet back from the door). I've asked for clearer pictures of any rust that wasn't "normal" to a Crown(like the emergency door, anyone have a fiberglass replacement collecting dust somewhere?) or where there are actual holes in the metal(aluminum?).
Did they use those fasteners on the 73's? If they did I'd be screwed if I bought any Crown using those fasteners.
Did they use those fasteners on the 73's? If they did I'd be screwed if I bought any Crown using those fasteners.
Since Crown coaches have aluminum bodies, rust isn't really much of an issue. the only steel panels on the exterior are the corrugated belting on the sides, and it's very thick, high grade steel, which is unlikly to have rusted though no matter how badly it's been exposed.
Emergency doors havesteel framing, but the corrugated panels on them are aluminum, so no rust problems there. Things like hinges are made of ~very~ thick steel, and are not prone to rust-through.
Maybe others have a first hand experience with later model Crown coaches, but my guess is that a '73 is going to have Gulmite fasteners. Someone is going to have to either find a source for drivers, or else begin manufacturing them, otherwise there'll be even more Crowns being scrapped out.
Emergency doors havesteel framing, but the corrugated panels on them are aluminum, so no rust problems there. Things like hinges are made of ~very~ thick steel, and are not prone to rust-through.
Maybe others have a first hand experience with later model Crown coaches, but my guess is that a '73 is going to have Gulmite fasteners. Someone is going to have to either find a source for drivers, or else begin manufacturing them, otherwise there'll be even more Crowns being scrapped out.
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