Will it be a Housewagon?

[Stealth Camper]

Sorry about the size of the pics above. Looks like I am "shouting" the pictures. I am resizing them to 640 x 480. but there must be something else I am not doing right.

The water wagon did not show up...

[Caravan Monster]

My house wagon is timber framed. There isn't enough strength in the corners for sustained movement - it would pull apart. That was my biggest design fault. I have an aluminium sheet roof with a curved profile, which has worked well, especially as it allows for insulation thickness of 6" to 10". The reflective property of the aluminium sheet keeps things cool in the summer, and the insulation depth is effective during the winter. Another mistake I made was in not insulating the floor - cold draughts make their way in between the floorboards in the depths of winter.

Stealth Camper's photo of the wagon in the museum also illustrates the traditional layered felt roof, with a canvas outer. I have seen this used in bow top horse drawn wagons in the UK. The felt is a very effective insulator, and these wagons are normally kept very warm with a tiny stove. This roofing system is also microporous, eliminating condensation problems.

If I were building another wagon, I would probably opt for steel framing with wooden panelling. I have noticed that in the UK, military surplus trailers with brakes, leaf spring suspension and a clever but simple steering design that would make an excellent base. Maybe similar is available in the USA ?

[stuartcnz]

I've been looking into this idea as a wagon concept, based on heavy truck trailers, as used over here.


Instead of using a fifth wheel with a dolly, they have a fixed ball bearing turntable and draw-bar. Until a couple of days ago, I hadn't been able to find any information about the turntables, or anything about lighter versions, for lighter trailers, than full sized commercial truck trailers. I have now found out a bit more about them and know where to get them, suitable for all road speeds, rated from as low as a 3 ton axial load rating, which weigh 26Kg, through to full sized heavy trailer.

When you know how to use these trailers, they are very maneuverable, to the point that you can line the trailer parallel next to the truck, with the trailer facing backwards, while still attached to the truck.

I want to eventually do something like this, with a gross weight of between 4 ton and 4.5 ton, set up as a flat deck with twistlocks, so the house can be removed, if I want to use the trailer for something else.

[Stealth Camper]

That looks pretty good. I have seen something similar here in the states - used in several different applications. Cotton hauling (from field to gin), and sugar beets. That is kind of similar to what I have in mind, but I was thinking dolly.

That type of thing should work well, I would think. Distribution of load would have to be better than the way we build recreational vehicles here. Only problem with doing it here is that everyone wants to use a relatively light pickup truck to pull them. With a 5th wheel or goose neck hitch.

[stuartcnz]

These are used for normal long haul transport here too. This four axle one has a gross rating of 34 ton.

That is kind of similar to what I have in mind, but I was thinking dolly.

Any particular reason for preferring a dolly? It would seem to me, that it would add complexity and possibly unnecessary weight.

[Stealth Camper]

Nothing other than the familiarity of the thing. I have little experience with that type of trailer (none!). Looks very good, though. That last one is just the type box I want!

I am guessing the steering is similar to the 5th wheel style of the large truck or dolly connection, just permanent. Something like that in about a 40 foot length would be just fine. The section between the wheels and under the frame would do nicely for "basement" storage and tanks. Box it in and insulate. A single axle front and back would be better for me since it would still carry all the weight I would ever want and be easier to maneuver.

[stuartcnz]

Yes they would be the same as steering with a dolly.

Though at 40 foot length, I would stick with a 5th wheel for getting around corners. The extra length of the draw bar would make the rear end cut into corners just that much more. Or alternatively you could split the unit into a B-train (depending on your local laws), which have both units on 5th wheels, and are the same to reverse as a straight truck & ball bearing turntable trailer.




B-Trains were my most satisfying combination to pull, when I was driving. They do cut into corners a bit more than truck and trailer, but not as much as tractor and semi, even though they are longer.

For the small amount of weight you don't need all of those axles, and you could use the same size wheels throughout, without the step deck, which would allow you to split it and just take one of the trailers (front or rear) for periods of time too.

[Stealth Camper]

What is the connection method for that set of 3 axles between the two trailers? Looks like it might be a single section with the back of one trailer swiveling as well as the front of the last trailer. Interesting!

[stuartcnz]

The three axles in the middle are all part of the front trailer, with a regular 5th wheel mounted on them, and the back trailer connects to that 5th wheel, the same as the front trailer connects to the 5th wheel on the truck.