1935 Chevy school bus

[ol trunt]

Hey Tango. Cosmetically the heater will be inside but functionally it will be outside--about as clear as mud eh? In effect I'm building a small sealed off "room" at the back of the bus for the heater. The combustion air will come in through a hole in the floor and the exhaust will exit via the louvers in the little back end window. From my "experiments" yesterday I'd say that a larger heater wouldn't be necessary as the L5 operating at half the temp range produced more than enough hot water. True its no steam cleaner at 1.4 gpm but it certaintly is enough flow for a good shower. I'd save the extra buck and a half for something else like say fuel for the first road trip

Like Dennis, I am impressed with the responsiveness of the little heater--indeed, instant on and off and well maintained water temp. Jack

[tango]

Got'cha --- I may still go with an indoor/vented mount. Although I'm no fan of freezing weather, I think I'll try and keep it out of any chillyness I might encounter. Danged grandkids live way too far north for palm trees. What'cha gonna do with kids these days?

[tango]

BTW --- Here is the gearbox. It is from an '03 NPR.

The only fluid on it is from cutting the lines but I'm having it rebuilt anyway.

[ol trunt]

Real purdy. Clean as that thing is I think i"d dust it off and try it out before spending for a rebuild--remember, you've got to save enough gas money for the maiden voyage out to Jack's place!

[ol trunt]

Hello All. Oh Boy, just a couple of more steps and I'll be ready to install the water heater. I finished the rust repair on the rear door and reversed the piano hinge and latch so the door now opens left to right thereby making it possible to use it as an emergency exit. The change was necessary because the bathroom blocked the path when the door opened right to left. The door needed rebuilding anyway so changing the swing only added a couple of days work. Jack

I cut off the bottom 4" of the door to remove the rusted area and then welded up a mini frame to use as a base for the replacement sheet metal. I discovered that the door was framed out internally with some beautiful oak wood. All but a bit of the wood could be reused so I left it alone. A broken rear window is no doubt what caused the door to rust as water could run freely into it.

I plug welded the frame into the bottom of the door and then welded sheet metal to the outside surface. I left the inside open as I will cover the entire inner surface of the door with upholstry of some sort.

The door fits and works acceptably well and I'll install the door sill tomorrow after it comes out of the rust strip tank.

[tango]

You never cease to amaze Jack --- I can only fantasize about doing sheetmetal work that looks that good. I always manage to overheat and oilcan just about everything. I did, however, just finish up a back door project myself. It took me two days to fab a new wedge-shaped strike plate (1 inch x 3 inches). Mine has strikes at the top & bottom bottom that hold it closed and the bottom one was fractured. Came apart. Little @#%$! like that can really eat your lunch. Especially when you don't have anything like the "right" tools.

I need to make friends with a good machinist! (and a body man...and a welder...and a diesel tech...and...)

Onward!

[ol trunt]

Hello All. Well, I did get a start on the water heater this afternoon. I spent the morning replacing my 4 yr old 12.5 cfm Harbor freight compressor. Despite the fact that I have serviced and drained the thing religeously, a sudden POP and all the air was comming out of a finger sized hole near the bottom of the tank! The good news is that the replacement compressor was free . The bad news is that it is exactly the same compressor as the one I had--even purchased on the same day. My buddy and I had purchased the compressors at the same time and while I did get some use out of mine, his went into storage almost immediately after its purchase. I know I'll be sleeping with one eye open waiting for the POP!

After considering the little research project I did the other day, I decided to move the water heater exhaust a little closer to the vent. This saved me some extra duct work time and labor. I'll check the temps at the vent before I seal the whole thing in and hopefully it will be ok. Jack

I shortened a 10" 90 degree sweep to match the discharge port of the water heater and then built an adaptor flu to hook up to the WH exhaust. I used 1/2 thickness fume hood screen to keep animals from making a home in the duct. The curved part of the duct will be attached to the inner plate of the "window" vent.

This pic shows the front of the heater and the louvers that will replace the glass window. I'll use the fume hood filter in the floor of the bus as the source of combustion air.

[ol trunt]

Hello All. The compressor saga continues. After allowing the replacement compressor to sit overnight to allow the oil to run back past the rings (had been laid on its side for a while) and into the sump I fired the thing up and marveled at how clean the oil looked through the sight glass and how strong the pump sounded. I then headed back to the shop area with plans of using an air cut off tool. The tool would spin up but would soon loose speed and stop. I figured that the air tank needed to fill and waited about 15 minutesto try again. No luck--must have left the drain plug open. When I reached under the compressor to check the drain plug I discovered air pouring out all arround the bottom bung--totally rusted out! D*#*#!

Like most of us skoolies I am so far in over my head with this project that I can't really afford a new $1000 compressor. Sooooo, I talked to my buddy who runs a welding shop and he agreed that I might get away with replacing the bottom of my tank with the top of the other tank thereby solving the rust problem and the compressor problem at one time. This would also allow me to coat the inside of the tank to slow down further rust. I know, I know, but what the Hell, if it works I have beat the Chinese at their own game!

Recommendations and salutations: DON'T buy a compressor from Harbor Freight!!!!!!!!!

Jack

[tango]

Roger that --- the only Chinese crap I buy is crap that is disposable after one use (if it'll last that long). And...(as seen on the nightly news) now they are poisoning our pets with contaminated dog & cat food. Pardon my political incorrectness, but F#@% 'em! You cannot convince me that all the lead painted toys and acres of mold infested sheetrock is anything less than a well coordinated conspiracy.

"Nuke'em from space...it's the only way to be sure." - Ripley

[splummer]

ageed. harbor frieght is cheap junk. steve

[ol trunt]

Hello All. Well, I'm a tired bunny tonight. I spent most of the day grinding the round ends off both of my compressors and came up with enough good stuff to make a "new" compressor. Foolishly I didnt have a long shirt and ended up with a million tiny spark burns on my left arm and left side of my face--must be what Botox feels like . I did have eye and ear protection so no big deal. While I was back at the house gathering more grinding discs a cop friend who is still working stopped by and mentioned that a mutual friend was selling off equiptment from his hobby shop and did I know anyone who needed a 9000# 12' Bend Pac auto lift. I called my buddy Jeff who owns the junk yard I often use when I'm going to make a lot of noise and $700 later he had a near new lift. I'll spend Saturday helping him set the thing up in his shop building. I was glad to be able to do something for him as he has been more than generous with me.

Gary, another friend, who is certified to weld pressure vessels agreed to weld my bits and pieces into a new tank in exchange for the extra pump and motor I now have . Take that you cheap s*#*# Chinese----I'd probably better acknowledge the one really good Chinese product that has served me well (and put up with me) for about 35 years-- my wife-- now Harbor Freight, what a bunch of CRAP!!!!

Oh well, enough bitching--I won this round--I think? . Jack

[Lostranger]

Hey Jack, Sorry you're having compressor woes. That's the kind of luck I'm used to when I get in a tight spot. Don't know how much air you need, but I'm completely happy with my Makita portable. I think the style is described as "double hotdog" because it has two small tanks. Probably not enough air for you, but I'm gonna mount mine next to the bus engine where the AC compressor used to sit. It has two outlets. I'll use one for tools and plumb the other into the main air supply. Then I won't have to idle to build air. Just run the compressor a few minutes, crank up and leave.

I also have a large compressor that I've never used. Bought it a couple years ago from a guy who ended up with an extra. Don't recall the size or brand, but it's one of the ones Lowes sells. Almost certainly Chinese, but it worked well when I got it. Will go in my new instrument shop which has to wait until the bus is further along.

The reason I mention it is that I see compressors like this on Craig's all the time. Usually reasonable. I paid $300 for mine, and it was ready to use. Many include hose, hookup cable and fittings. Might save you some time.

I should keep my mouth shut, though. All of us will love seeing how you fix your old one.

Keep up the great work.

Jim

[ol trunt]

Hello All. After another day hacking and grinding on my compressor I did manage to save enough energy to fit the Ecotemp water heater to the rear of my bus. Next I'll build the air tight closet to cover the water heater. Jack

I welded in brackets by which to mount the water heater to the inner rear wall.

A few pics of the compressor saga. Here at 12 o'clock is the little hole that started the "hole" fiasco.

This is the crack in the replacement compressor.

Despite having drained the tank after each usage, this is what I found inside the tank. Note the lack of ANY rust preventave coating--way to build 'em guys!

After trimming the bottom of the "keeper" tank I treated the inside with phosphoric acid to "convert" the rust. I'll wash off the excess, dry and coat the inside of the tank in an effort to extend its life.

[tango]

Hey Jack --- sorry to hear about the distraction but it looks like you at least avoided a tank explosion. Barely.

[ol trunt]

Hello All. While I havent quite finished the repair on the compressor I do now know what happened to cause the bung to rust out. A small hole was drilled in the bottom of the tank and then the large bung was welded over the hole-- scab like. This created a pocket for water to collect in with no way to escape. That and no rust proofing were a perfect combination for a near disaster.

I spent a pleasant and uninterupted day working on the bus. I fabed up the cover for the instant water heater. It was a challenge because of the compound curves at the rear of the bus but that just makes it more fun . I made a couple of design changes on the fly so now the cover will also provide cooling to the heater exhaust through convective draw as well as house the two, 3 gpm water pumps (any leakage from the pumps will run out the air inlet for the heater and not soak the floor).

Jack

The cover is about 4' tall, 7" thick and 14" wide. It will be sealed against the rear wall and floor of the bus to prevent carbon dioxide escaping into the living area.

Another view of the cover showing the angle it is at when installed. I will make screw on covers for the two access holes. The small hole is for the heater control and the large hole is for access to the pumps.