I see you are back to playing bus so you must have survived the weekend rum you were looking forward to. Don't forget to take a bunch of pics of your motor and tranny when you go to pick them up--I can hardly wait to see just what that combo looks like.
I got the pneumatics worked out for my air operated door today. I'll next work on the 3 way switching mechanism I plan to use to open and shut the thing. Jack
Oh well, what good is a post without pics? I wired the door like you would wire a hallway lamp--you can turn it on or off at either end of the hall. I can open or close the door either inside the bus or outside--the only problem was that I couldn't find a 3 way switch for the outside that would release the key in all positions. I did find a couple of switch locks that would allow key removal in either the on or off position but it required two switches to make it work ( I let a bunch of smoke out of a relay trying to get a single switch to work ) So it looks a bit strange but it works. Jack
Key switches in cowl.
Didn't get much sleep last night. I couldnt turn the bus off, but as a result I did figure out how to seal the door I've been working on! Next to the hot shower, dream time seems to be the best time for problem solving----yawn, yawn. Jack
In this pic you can see both the converter and the inverter as well as the 3 RV type plugs. I positioned the inverter in the vertical and then read in the installation directions that it is suposed to be mounted horizontaly. I can only think of two reasons why this night be seeing that the whole thing is PCM and that is that the fan may need to be vertical for some reason or that someone might install the thing with the fan at the top blowing down against rising hot air--any Ideas?
I've placed the electrical service directly above the battery box so as to minimize the line loss. The couple of double ott leads should do the trick. The #8 line feeds the genny starter motor and cooling fans and is on it's own circuit to the third battery (only one installed so far). The #8 has a baggie over it because I discovered that the genny has a big fat capaciter that likes to discharge when you touch the lead
Surplus Center has a four position key switch that you can remove the key in any position.
It's what I used to actuate my linear actuator door lock.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp? ... e=electric
I'm not sure how to embed a video, but click on the picture and it will take you there.
If you want I can supply better pictures and a wiring diagram. Rod just goes into a hole in the edge of the door.
Sometimes it's just too hard to get this old brain around putting things on forums.
I've posted a clearer picture and a PDF of the wiring diagram on my website
Wiring page is here
Note that somewhere along the line the brown and green wires got switched in the wiring block. I think the wiring diagram is right, haven't studied it. Probably comes from having the wiring to the limit switches backwards in real life. The way it's wired, actuator stops when door is locked or unlocked and will only go the other way. With latching relays it could be done by just a push of the button. The way I did it you have to hold the button until the actuator stops. Inside switch can be added by using a momentary contact on/off/on switch using red,white and yellow wires, red goes to center terminal of switch. When I get more time, I'll add indicator lights, so I know when to let go of the button if I'm not close enough to watch the lock.
I haven't tested the accuracy, but I bought a couple of these to control the cooling fans in my electrical cabinets. They won't handle the amps, but can be paired with a relay.
The plus side is you get a temp reading of the area in question, the down side is it's centigrade. I did test to see if there was any problem with long leads for the thermocouple and couldn't really detect any.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-STC-100 ... 20c5c422f6
Just one of the many available on ebay.
With the extension cord problem cleared up my Saws All and I made a trip to the junk yard where I cut out a gas door from which to make a port for the shore power extension cord. I'll still have to do some weatherproofing after I paint but the thing works great.
I'm now back working on the front sheet metal. Once I'm happy with the fit (or resigned to the fact that this is as good as it is going to get) I'll make an "exoskelton" to weld the front end parts to so I can remove the complete front end in one piece to allow me to build an internal tube frame to support a tilt front end--I expect to run a lot of hot water through the shower on this one, Ha Jack
The gas door I selected is from a mid 90's chevy PU. I liked the round shape and flat serface.
The part blended easily into the bus.
Here is a pic of the extension cord pluged in.
And finally a pic of the electrical port as it will look when not using shore power.
Trial run with front sheet metal.
Mock up after lowering the radiator and fitting the fender. I'm not happy yet. The red parts are necessary to cover the inter cooler and hopefully moving the headlamp pods farther foreward will help take your eye off of them. I also have to add a little tin to the fenders so the front wheels look centered.
I've finally gotten my passenger side ready to lay on some skin. As you well know, you can't finish A until you do B, but that has to wait on C cause D, E, F, G & H all have to be in place before C, and on & on. But in between I did manage to mount the trickier part of my rear bumper extension (for the deck). And while I have gone back & forth on whether to put my genny indoors (like yours) or take the easy way out and just set it on the back deck, I have finally (I think) decided on a compromise. It will go on a slide out built right behind the left rear wheel but will be designed to run only in the open position. That will make it a whole lot easier for me to engineer but will limit run time to only when parked. I think I can keep a small freezer/fridge going over the road with a big alternator and batteries but will rely on a buddy with vastly more electro-saavy than I for guidance in that area.
Keep the pix a'comin'!
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