That Chevy bus is fabulous , but seriously , you have to learn how to fix it yourself , or you will go broke. Keep asking questions and we will try to give you good direction .
I also spent some time on the bus lights. The headlights came on with the switch, the turn signals did not. I couldn't find much documentation about the turn signal components, the Grote 966-4 switch and the Buss 550 flasher. I went through the turn signal circuit and created my own document. I don't know how to post a pdf here. I could post it as 6 jpg images if anyone is interested. btw I did get the turn signals to work. Next- I'll get the fuel gauge working!
I determined the fuel gauge works, and the sender. I disconnected the sender from the gauge to test. The gauge swings between full and empty with that terminal grounded or not, I also connected a potentiometer and adjusted between 0 and 300Ω to see the needle movement. I then measured the resistance of the sender, put in about 10 gallons of gas and measured again, it changed some. I re-connected the sender to the gauge, not much movement, but it’s a big fuel tank. I really need to get the bus on the road, I moved it over to another parking place, closer to the end of the extension cord. I ran the fridge on A/C and my beer got icey, it works well. I was having trouble with lighting the propane, so I put a fuller tank on, but it still wouldn’t light. The propane tanks are in a cubby under the back, they lay horizontal. I recently read about the difference between verticle and horizontal tanks, so I placed the tank on a stand next to the bus in it’s verticle position. I was able to light the fridge, first with a lighter, and then with the flint from the inside.
I’m redesigning the electrical system. I have gone through the existing system so I know what I am working with. It is set up for boondocking, one wire from a relay-on with key-to charge the house batteries. There is an on demand water pump and four lights. Two lights are on house batteries with switches at the light. Two lights are on bus battery with switches by the driver. There is an A/C plug for the 2-way fridge, and 120v light sockets in the oven and range vent. There is no roof vent for the range or fridge, so I’ll add one at some point. The roof air is also A/C 120v.My plan is to install a power center with charger and distribution panel. I ordered a Parallax 6730D power center yesterday, so I’ll have lights soon. I’m not sure how, but I want to move the two light switches from the driver panel to near the lights. I’ll either run all new wire, or run new wire to the switxch panel and tap into the existing wire going to the lights.
I energized the waterpump, it works, but I wanted to test the pressure switch, so I connected a water hose. A waterfall! The water heater tank had split, it happened awhile ago and someone had mad a nest of fiberglass. I located a replacement tank and installed it, but the controller threads kept leaking, I also found a leak behind the toilet. I put plumbers paste on the controller threads, but haven’t tested it yet. I removed the toilet and found it has a quick connect, so I didn’t need to remove it. The quick connect leaks, so I have a new valve on order. I also found the black water tank full. At least I know it holds. It’s empty now, good thing it’s the rainy season.
My next task will be to re-install the toilet and get the water system under pressure. Check for leaks, test the water pump pressure switch, test the water heater. I hope to accomplish this before any freeze. I will also install the power panel and get some lights working. Eventually I’ll install a shore power recepticle.
We'd all like to see a few pics of your project. Since Photof--er--bucket went sower I've been using Postimage.org. It is still free and it is easy to use. Jack
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