HELP can i put hydraulic oil as engine oil ?

[Rudy]

I agree with Splummer. I bet Sharkey would have an opinion.

[Jones'n4chrome]

If you have 100 gallons, then I would sell it for as low as $1.00 a gallon, then go buy the recommended oil for your engine.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rlz= ... =&gs_rfai=

[Jones'n4chrome]

I agree with Splummer. I bet Sharkey would have an opinion.

Don't try and drag Sharkey into this.

[Dualfuel]

A couple of things... if this is a Mad Max situation where all you have to get out of where you are is hydraulic oil, then pour it in and get out. If you have the option to be fussy about what goes in the engine, then be fussy.
If this is a case of not having a clue and wanting to experiment...don't. If that is the case then experiment with the joys of free trade, and do as Chuck writes about. Sell some oil and buy some "C" rated oil.
As for what I do. Its right. I wouldn't write about something I haven't done. Thats called lying. I do use hydraulic oil in the engines at the bush during the winter. They start better in the cold with straight weight 10 oil. I used to use used motor oil in the leaky equipment for hydraulic fluid. Now I use used fryer oil because its clean when it leaks out. I start all my rebuilt engines with fryer oil as their break in oil. No failures yet. I get the skepticism, people here refuse to try biodiesel.
What amazes me, is this topic actually sucked up this much bandwidth...
DF

[splummer]

as of this time frame it isnt a mad max situation, well at least not up here.
as of being fussy ,having a engine can be a big investment, the cost of replacement can be high.it something i wont do, i dont reall care what others do, its their engine, alli can do is speack my opion, as far as biodiesel, thats anther discussion, i also wont used used motor oil. or veg. oil.
i have a multi fuel for one of my dueces only thing i burn is diesel ,ip s are very expensive to replace.

[stuartcnz]

A couple of things... if this is a Mad Max situation where all you have to get out of where you are is hydraulic oil, then pour it in and get out. If you have the option to be fussy about what goes in the engine, then be fussy.
If this is a case of not having a clue and wanting to experiment...don't. If that is the case then experiment with the joys of free trade, and do as Chuck writes about. Sell some oil and buy some "C" rated oil.
As for what I do. Its right. I wouldn't write about something I haven't done. Thats called lying. I do use hydraulic oil in the engines at the bush during the winter. They start better in the cold with straight weight 10 oil. I used to use used motor oil in the leaky equipment for hydraulic fluid. Now I use used fryer oil because its clean when it leaks out. I start all my rebuilt engines with fryer oil as their break in oil. No failures yet. I get the skepticism, people here refuse to try biodiesel.
What amazes me, is this topic actually sucked up this much bandwidth...
DF

If it was my engine, I would take it to a mechanic and have them do a full service, oil and all. I am not mechanicaly minded, so if I do it any other way it will break.

If I was in the s@#t away from help and Dualfuel came along, I would say thank you very much for your help, because I wouldn't have moved from here without it. If even half of what he has written is true, I think it is fair to say, he knows what he is talking about, when it comes to motors.

[splummer]

if there is any confusion on motor oils ,or any one having doubts ,theyshould refer to a viscosity chart, i have one if needed , sorry about being anal on this.. there isa whole science on viscosity

[Stealth Camper]

10W is what it is said to be. That would be the same as 10W motor oil. (10-40W is really just 10W. It doesn't get thicker when it gets hot - thinner if anything, so there never really is 40W involved. The oil can just cover applications that would require 40.)

I sure wouldn't use it for the life of the engine, but DF knows whereof he speaks. (I still wouldn't use mineral oil base hydraulic, but petro based is fine especially for this one time event.)

[Jones'n4chrome]

That ain't the way to have fun... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKaQzQAlNn4

[Dualfuel]

splummer, darn right! there is nothing fun about blowing up an engine. I am not trying to school you or rub your ego in it. Some people survive by eating out of dumpsters or building houses out of used lumber. You do need to be aware that there are alternatives out there, and strict adherance to your automotive beliefs might not be quite so dire or precarious as you imagine...
For example your LDS 465 has a specific gravity compensator that allows the engine to burn anything flammable. What will kill those engines is speed. I kept my beloved B-02 rolling around Germany full time for three years because I never tached it over 2800rpm. Meanwhile B-01 always ran at 3500rpm but went through an engine every quarter.
Stealth, the W means winter. The first number is the base oil. The second number is the viscosity equivalent of the oil after the polymers un curl when warm. You are spot on, the oil gets no better then its base weight, so what harm could fresh 10 weight oil do? Even non-detergent hydraulic oil? Especially if you change it as it breaks down. Thats why I crave SAE 40. I buy that by the drum when I find it cheap.
Anyhoo, notice how I never carry on about the nice cabinets I built? Its because I am a one trick pony, engines. DF

[Jones'n4chrome]

OK, OK...if I must weigh in on this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIzK8FHGZnM

[Dennis The Bus Dweller]

When I heard that I thought it was my phone ringing

[Jones'n4chrome]

When I heard that I thought it was my phone ringing

I heard that ringing too, but I just thought it was Pete Townshend's ears.

[Stealth Camper]

DF,
I was trying to say that I wouldn't use 10W hydraulic oil for the life of the engine, but I guess it came out as 10W motor oil...

10W is great as a motor oil. I use Valvoline in the cars and Delvac in the trucks. Have thought about just going to Delvac across the board. Do you know any reason NOT to do so? Around here, a gallon of Delvac (or even Rotella) is about $3 cheaper than the SE/CC car oil.

[Dualfuel]

Dear Chuck,
I have no sound on the computer anymore so the nice Youtube links are wasted on me, bummer, as you probably were making a good or funny point.
Dear Stealth, I don't know what your application is. Generally I try and run the highest base weight I can buy. If I can't buy oil, then i use vegatable oil in summer, and 10W in the winter.
Delvac is a fine oil that I buy when I can. I notice the 6.9 diesel doesn't burn as much of it as with vegatable oil.
Straight weight is best. Lets remember what happened once finite analysis programs like Ideas, came into being...combined with statistical analysis. We (MEs) no longer had to design for unlimited cycles, instead we could shoot for the 75th percentile for failure, then take that number of cycles as the new standard. A straight weight oil was designed in conjunction for a machine running unlimited cycles. Multi-vis is designed to keep you on the bell curve 'til you are over the hump.
Of course there are the synthetics....
DF